Coastal Lovin'

If I wasn't already head over heels for Italia, this past weekend's trip certainly would have sealed the deal.  IES includes one optional excursion in our study abroad package and my pick was a weekend touring the scenic Amalfi Coast.  Now, I know you all must be raising your eyebrows thinking, "Does this girl actually go to school?" and I promise, I do...It's just that I have been waiting for things to settle down to give you the full update on that aspect of this journey.  So, before I bore you with some proof that I actually study here, I'll give you the best of Amalfi.

First Stop: Pompeii

After wrenching myself from bed to make a 7:15 AM bus and passing out for the 3.5 hour drive (which will seem like nothing by the end of this semester of exhaustive travels!), we arrived at the ruins of Pompeii for an 11 AM tour from our chipper, fedora-clad guide Francesco, who sported a hilarious man-purse (murse?) I might add.  Pompeii, a town in the region of Campania, was buried under the ashes and debris expelled by the volcano Mount Vesuvius about 2,000 years ago.  Since its rediscovery in the mid-1700s, its remains have been analyzed and provide extraordinarily detailed evidence of how Romans lived two millenia ago!  Long, fact-filled tours are normally not my thing, but this one was an exception because we actually visually reconstructed the ancient town. We observed the same bodies recovered from the eruption, examined ancient frescoes of vibrant reds and blues, and toured through remains of the palace of justice, the city center, housing for both the affluent and the poor, and beyond.  The faded image of Mt. Vesuvius served as a picturesque backdrop to the compilation of ruins and Francesco's many exuberant exclamations of "Mamma Mia!" livened up the tour.  

Entrance to the ruins

The ruins in front of Mt. Vesuvius

Ancient frescoes

Adornments in the bathhouse, a central social locale for early Roman life

Francesco behind Pompeii's "fast food" counter

Just chillin' by some ancient columns

Not too shabby looking for an ancient city!

Next Up: Sorrento

After our visit to the ruins, we re-boarded the bus for a quick one-hour drive to the luxurious Hotel Capodimonte in Sorrento.  "Capodimonte" translates from Italian as "head of the mountain" and, true to its name, the hotel provided a fantastic panoramic view of the coastline from its elevated perch. We chose to while away our first night's free time by relaxing poolside before a delicious four course dinner.  The gnocchi with creamy gorgonzola and smoky pancetta and the seafood risotto were to die for!  Post-dinner, we walked around downtown Sorrento; stores stay open until 10 or 11 PM for all of the tourists it inevitably ropes in.  We sipped on some wine by the coastal overlook and turned in early in anticipation of next morning's crack of dawn wake up call.

View from our poolside overlook of Sorrento

Had to take more than one!

Houses downtown...so endearing!

Looking up from the Port of Sorrento

Waiting for our ferry from Sorrento to Capri

Crossing Over to...Capri!

Bright and early Saturday morning, the IES-ers marched down to the port of Sorrento to take a brief ferry ride to the isle of Capri, where we would spend the better part of the day.  Funny enough, I unknowingly had thrown on capri pants that morning.  The boat ride left my roommate and I feeling a little queasy, but upon docking, it was evident that any minor stomach pain was justifiable in the face of this breathtaking limestone island.  After stepping off the boat, we took the "funicolare," a vertical shuttle, up the mountain to do some individual exploring.  I joined a group of girls for a tour of the Carthusia perfume factory, a quaint little operation that churns out the most sophisticated scents I have ever encountered.  My ultimate pick was "Carthusian Lady," a perfume combining 80 flowers to produce an intricate, dressier scent for a more formal occasion.  I hope Mom is a fan; these one-of-a-kind souvenirs aren't exactly Target-priced!  When we had finished our rounds and sufficiently window-shopped (Dolce and Gabbana wasn't quite in the budget!), a couple of friends and I traversed a winding path down the mountain to one of the exquisite private beaches.  Even without a paralyzing fear of heights, the walk was certainly anxiety-inducing, but by the time our sore bodies hit the crystal blue water, we all agreed that the trek was well worth it.  And we had to again remind ourselves just how worthwhile it was when, after an hour of enjoying the surf, we dragged ourselves back up the mountain to catch the funicolare down its' opposite side.  We spent our final hour on a boat tour of the entire island with close-up views of the blue and green grottos, a stroll under the "Lover's Arch," a glimpse of Giorgio Armani's vacation home, and sightings of the island's smaller towns, its various monuments and cliff after fabled cliff.  Our early afternoon departure was difficult to stomach, but hey!, at least I got to snack on some of Capri's own "Caprese al Limone" gelato to soothe the pain of leaving it behind.

Step off of the boat and onto paradise...

The dream dress of every girl on our program

For Isabella, your favorite store!

The perfume factory!

These Capresians (sp?) have good taste!

Mountain-side snapshot

After our dip in the ocean...irresistible photo op!

Giorgio Armani's digs

Water by the green grotto...looks just like oil paint!

A long wait at the Grotto Azzurra

Positively Precious: Positano

While we could only steal a quick peek on a Sunday pitstop, this city absolutely wows.  I had to stick it in here for kicks.  I wish I could bring Positano home with me or at least airlift one of those houses! I am so jealous that my parents get to spend some more time here so enjoy it for me, please.

Not to scare you, Mom and Dad, but I may have to marry an Italian
if that means I can live here...

Love at first sight!

Final Destination: Amalfi

Our last stop in Amalfi was a nice finishing touch to the jam-packed weekend.  We visited the church of St. Andrew (whose given holiday is my birthday...kindred spirits much?  Okay, jokes aside...) and roamed around the shops in town, picking up limoncello pitchers here and tiles of the gorgeous coastal landscapes there, than speculating on prices.  While we intended to stop in Ravello for lunch and to view a villa, a fire had tragically struck the town and made it impossible for us to incorporate the stop into our journey.  Nonetheless, our bus toured the entire coastline impromptu and, even in motion, through the tinted glass, we could still capture the most gratifying parting snapshots.  Not a shabby introduction to travels abroad here!

Central strip of housing

Belltower and St. Andrew's Church

Where would Italy be without its' glorious fountains?

Tilework in the cloister of St. Andrew's

Impressive architectural detail in the crypt

Hey, birthday buddy!

I know this was a bit of an exhaustive post, but I just wanted to give you all a thorough recap of the weekend and assure you that I am learning (really) even when it is just some history pleasantly picked up on a short getaway.  To come: the 4-1-1 on school here, field studies, and  some upcoming trips to Florence this weekend and Oktoberfest the next.  

Ciao,

Lex

The Highlight Reel: Round Two

Times flies when you're a roaming Roman!  Two weeks down in the Eternal City and it feels like just yesterday that I de-boarded that United plane in a jet-lagged haze.  Well, that's not entirely true...in some ways, I feel like I have been here forever.  While I am not sleeping on a comfy Tempurpedic mattress pad, our sweet little apartment has become home (I have mastered drying on a clothesline and sufficiently adjusted to no A/C...ever).  I have also eaten more pizza and pasta here than I did last year and I really don't regret a single bite.  Our takeout pizza place up the street is renowned in Roma (and that's saying something with so many fantastic joints) and their suppli (fried risotto and mozzarella balls that are coated in breadcrumbs) put 2Amy's in DC to shame!  Today was our first day of area studies courses and so the reality has finally set in that this isn't just some freak vacation...it's life...at home...in Rome!  Here are some select happenings/observations of this past week.

Nuovi Amici Italiani

Living with Susanna, our lovely ISC, was the best pre-departure decision I made by far.  We are all delighted by her charming personality, but more than that, she has made the immersion process so simple and enjoyable.  Before coming here, I never had to bridge a language gap with a friend.  It was easy, dialogue flowed smoothly, and that was that.  But I never realized how rewarding it could be to gain friends by dutifully committing to bridging a cultural or language gap.  Luckily, Sus is incredibly inviting and we have gotten to meet all of her closest friends in our first few weeks here.  Sure, we've cheated a bit (most of her friends speak a decent bit of English), but we have also been spending lots of time with these full-fledged Italian natives.  I have learned the expression for cheers-ing (yes, I am aware I invented that verb) in Italian, the strong pronunciation of r's, and the word for earrings (orecchini...her friends have adorable ones) among other useful tidbits.  After our night out in Trastevere with the Roman crew, my roommate and I were way too giddy about our six new Italian friends and immediately Facebook friended the whole lot, then wrote on their walls in Italian to invite them out with us again.  Meeting these new people has made me value creating international bonds so much more.  Even after the program, I definitely will aim to not only be more receptive to those of different backgrounds, but to aggressively seize the opportunity to make diverse friends.  These ties can prove to be the most rewarding!

Some of the suitemates with Susanna and friends in Trastevere

Stumble Upon Roma

StumbleUpon.com is one of my absolute favorite websites because you can input any and all of your interests and it shoots you to limitless other obscure websites that will keep you entertained for hours.  It is my go-to for cute quotes, scenic photos, addicting computer games, and fascinating tidbits of information.  I cannot help thinking that living in Monteverde in Roma is a real-life version of Stumble Upon.  Seriously, though.  My friends and I will start off looking for a cheap dinner spot in the city center and end up being thrust into dozens of mini-adventures on the way to our destination.  These little snapshots largely contribute to the awesome bigger picture.  From a captivating little breakdance show by Piazza Venezia to an impromptu visit to the Pantheon on yet another gelato quest,  I have been enjoying "surfing sites" in real time in Italia.  I am definitely ready to put all of these enthralling monuments, restaurants, and events into context through all that we will learn in our area studies courses!

Breakdancers on Via Del Corso

Suitemates in front of the Trevi at night

Just happened upon the Pantheon

View on the gorgeous morning walk to school

Central city street

Cute lunch spot in town

A "scopiero della fame" (hunger strike) occurring right by the Trevi

Notable Nuances

Sure, there are definite similarities between Italians and Americans (We both love food and vino; Lady Gaga and Bruno Mars have also made their way over here to dominate pop culture...and grocery store speakers), but the distinctions are what you obviously make note of when you're an "americana" transplanted from the US.  First of all, I don't think that I would ever receive an info sheet to fill in from an American professor that asked if I had ever spoken in public, then followed up with the question, "Were you sober?"  Yet, such was the case with a handout from my International Relations teacher here.  Yes, the drinking age is obviously lower in Italy, but there is this more relaxed dialogue taking place in the classrooms here from day one that is simply different.  I can't tell yet if it's a European thing, an Italian thing, or a professor-specific sort of thing so I will have to get back to you on that one.  All that I can say is that I look forward to learning more about these educational distinctions.  In addition, one of the most difficult things to adjust to here is the forward mannerism of Italian men.  I know that this may come off as a trivial commentary, but it is tough to enjoy dancing at a discoteca when a random guy is grabbing your wrist or pulling your hair.  While I am sure that most of my female friends could write an essay about the flaws of American boys, there is a definite increase in aggression here that warrants a heightened level of awareness and takes definite adjustment.  As a lady in the big city, you must always travel in a large group, maintain an air of confidence at all times, and ensure that your personal space is respected.  I am glad to be learning some street smarts on this awesome journey.

I will follow up soon with more detail on classes.  This semester will be rife with some incredible field studies; I am looking forward to the gorgeous architectural and artistic masterpieces for the course "Rome as a Living Museum" as well as the various urban landscapes we will journey to for "Culture and Urban Change in Contemporary Italy."  Coming up this weekend is our IES excursion to the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii and Capri...can't wait!

Ciao for now!

Mangia!

In my family, we often jokingly apply the expression that certain people "eat to live," but that we "live to eat."  When it comes to culinary appreciation, I have found my people here in Roma.  While I have strayed far (and I mean far) from any of the healthful eating suggestions I used to pore over in Self magazine at home, I can validate the overload of carb-filled, creamy indulgences because this is one rare time in my life that I know I am getting the best of the best!

I am thrilled that my program, IES, understands where I am coming from with the food cravings. They have designed a curriculum that incorporates many sensory activities into our educational experience, the first being a staff-led cooking class yesterday morning (molto buono)!  The ladies leading the class were native Italians which made our cooking experience a more authentic and enriching one (and oh so anthropological, Emory would be proud).  There are so many small differences in the way Italians and Americans cook that add up to produce two very distinct cooking styles.  Everyone in my suite is still trying to fearlessly brave the gas stoves and attempt to properly convert the Celsius degree measures on our oven here, but more than that, Italians cook without reservations.  There were recipe handouts in a small bin for us to take home with us, but I rarely saw the staff consult them.  There was a lot more eye-balling of measurements, throwing spices into the pot just for the heck of it, and hoping (no, trusting instinctively) that things would turn out for the best.  And they absolutely did!  The fabulous vegetables au gratin made me feel a little bit better about my vitamin intake, but were generously coated in breadcrumbs, cheese, and seasoning to up the "yum" factor. Then, we whipped up chicken rollatini (so simple), which was coated in the most delicious broth made from a bouillon cube (dehydrated chicken stock).  The time we spent cooking relative to the fraction of time we spent devouring everything is a very embarrassing ratio.

While I wish I could cook in such a carefree manner as our lovely indigenous coordinators, normally when my friends and I break out a Barefoot Contessa or Giada De Laurentiis cookbook at home, it is a three-hour long ordeal that involves exact measurements and rarely straying from the recipe. However, I know that I'm already making some progress on lightening things up in the kitchen.  As aforementioned in another post, we lack a lot of trademark American kitchen utensils here so we have been performing quite a bit of "kitchen improv" as I have termed it.  When I get back to the states, I am hoping to be a pro!

Below are the dishes we created at IES.  To follow are some more weekly highlights and photos. Coordinating photo uploading among seven roomies is no simple task!

Baci,
Alexi

Vegetables au gratin

Chicken Rollatini: delicious chicken slices wrapped around
mortadella ham, egg, and parmigiano!

The Highlight Reel

As I strolled along the jagged cobblestone streets with my suitemates on the way to the Trastevere neighborhood a few nights ago, sipping on a cup of "sangrita" (the Italian interpretation of sangria?  It tastes like a vino-flavored slushie), I took in the most beautiful view of our massive glittering city. Being abroad here has definitely reawakened my senses, sharpening and enhancing my ability to derive happiness from a sip of wine or a glance at the night sky.  Being so familiar with life at home, I doubt that I really took in more than 25 percent of what was going on around me at a time.  In contrast, life abroad inspires an engagement in the surrounding community and culture that maximizes one's understanding of and appreciation for all that is happening.  With this in mind, I thought I would provide you all with a few highlights from my first week here.  Hopefully, this will be a continuous theme on the blog as I continue to discover more in town, throughout Italy, and beyond to the other European countries I travel to!

Lago di Martignano

Mission: relaxation.  This was the message conveyed by Gianni, an IES staffer in charge of my icebreaker group.  We had just taken a charter bus about 45 minutes outside of Rome to the region of Lazio, then boarded a smaller, thinner bus that wound its way up a massive mountain to our final destination.  Atop that mountain lay a gorgeous expanse of pasture, a hilltop restaurant with a divine outdoor patio, and an absolutely breathtaking view of the volcanic lake Martignano that was ours for the exploring.  After we finished discussing our choice of Roma in the small icebreaker groups and analyzing the difference between the American schedules we so recently kept and the Italian schedules we will soon be keeping, we were free to enjoy the lake however we so chose.  We all snacked on pre-packaged sandwiches (Prosciutto and mozzarella? Check yes!) and then dove into the sparkling water.  The bottom of the lake was coated in sticky mud from the volcano which unfortunately had that jellyfish-like texture that forces you to tread water well beyond your capacity, but we can certainly use all of the aerobic exercise we can get out here (Pasta every day? I can check that off the list as well).  The rest of the day was spent paddleboating and lying in the sun, attempting to build that Italian glow I have come to desire so much every time I see a skinny, perfectly dressed Italian girl (every 5 seconds).  Not a bad way to start off an incredible semester!

Lago di Martignano

Suitemates by the lake

Lovely foliage by the pastures

A stampede of sheep crashing the party

Touristy Goodness

I am not going to lie, I am not above taking pictures of the clichéd touristy delights of Rome.  They are in those guidebooks for a reason, you know.  So while I hope to share some undiscovered gems in the future, I can provide you with some assurance that the highly revered spots are actually true prizes.  Earlier this week, our ISC took us out for a night out on the town where we slurped on delicious "grattachecca," a traditional Roman dessert akin to a more flavorful snow cone with fruit on top, and then wandered over to St. Peter's Basilica in Vatican City.  Police cars constantly whir around San Pietro to ward off potential trespassers and keep an eye on the holy site, one well worth protecting as you will agree after seeing the photo below.  We topped off our night alongside the glistening Tiber River, which is lined with bars and discos in the summer months that reel in visitors and locals alike by the dozen.

St. Peter's Basilica

Doing as the Romans do...slurping from fountains!
(Normal here, I promise.)

Mojito Très, a bar alongside the Tiber

Yesterday, my roommate Sara and I joined her family on Via Del Corso, one of Rome's trendiest and most well-renowned shopping streets, to peruse the shops for gifts for friends and family at home. There was an impressive mix of high-end and more moderately-priced boutiques, but I think I will save some gelato money for now and conveniently hit the via again when my parents are in town. We also wound our way to the Trevi fountain, the largest Baroque fountain in the city, that is unmatched in its regal splendor by any other water fixture in my humble opinion.  Of course, considering all of the trips still to be taken, I may be challenging this assertion quite soon.  I had a few spare centimes and was able to make a wish at the Trevi, a popular tradition, so we'll see where that one goes!  After some spaghetti alla carbonara (Doing things authentically has never felt this good!), our aching hammies and food coma begged for us to call it a day, but I think we have done pretty well for our first week!

A colonna on Via Del Corso

Trevi

Mid-wish!

Interesting street art 

Altare Della Patria in Piazza Venezia

Sweet Suite Cucina

We have devised a pretty genious system in the apartment where we cook dinner in pairs three nights of the week.  It sounds a bit silly, but I definitely feel a lot more grown up than I did in the states having our own kitchen to clean, organize, and cook in using what supplies we can scrounge up in Rome.  We are not short on the food by any stretch, but there are definitely some kitchen implements they are lacking over here.  So far, Megan and Kristen have whipped up a pasta with Amatriciana sauce (the Roman word for a bacon and tomato combo) which was served with bread and olive oil.  Last night, Kate and I made some delicious crepes with fillings including grilled chicken, pesto, prosciutto, feta, and some sweet toppers like bananas and Nutella.  We had a few neighborhood friends over who brought some sparkling wine and the most fantastic cannolis I have ever eaten.  We are definitely embracing our new living space and experimenting with what is offered in Roman markets.  A simple grocery run often brings unanticipated intrigue.  On Thursday, we met Paola, a lovely middle-aged Italian woman, in the checkout line of a nearby market.  She heard me speaking English and asked if we could meet with her at some point so she could speak English with us and teach us some Italian in exchange.  We are looking forward to her e-mail and the enriching chats over cappuccinos to come.  Without further ado, some foodie pics:

Megan improv-ing on a can opener alternative

Our first homemade meal

Crepe time!

The most delicious cannolis...ever!

A week of intensive Italian and academic advising awaits, interspersed with more excursions and some IES-led cooking classes.  Looking forward to updating soon.  

Arrivederci for now,

Alexi