Thursday, September 8, 2011

Mangia!

In my family, we often jokingly apply the expression that certain people "eat to live," but that we "live to eat."  When it comes to culinary appreciation, I have found my people here in Roma.  While I have strayed far (and I mean far) from any of the healthful eating suggestions I used to pore over in Self magazine at home, I can validate the overload of carb-filled, creamy indulgences because this is one rare time in my life that I know I am getting the best of the best!

I am thrilled that my program, IES, understands where I am coming from with the food cravings. They have designed a curriculum that incorporates many sensory activities into our educational experience, the first being a staff-led cooking class yesterday morning (molto buono)!  The ladies leading the class were native Italians which made our cooking experience a more authentic and enriching one (and oh so anthropological, Emory would be proud).  There are so many small differences in the way Italians and Americans cook that add up to produce two very distinct cooking styles.  Everyone in my suite is still trying to fearlessly brave the gas stoves and attempt to properly convert the Celsius degree measures on our oven here, but more than that, Italians cook without reservations.  There were recipe handouts in a small bin for us to take home with us, but I rarely saw the staff consult them.  There was a lot more eye-balling of measurements, throwing spices into the pot just for the heck of it, and hoping (no, trusting instinctively) that things would turn out for the best.  And they absolutely did!  The fabulous vegetables au gratin made me feel a little bit better about my vitamin intake, but were generously coated in breadcrumbs, cheese, and seasoning to up the "yum" factor. Then, we whipped up chicken rollatini (so simple), which was coated in the most delicious broth made from a bouillon cube (dehydrated chicken stock).  The time we spent cooking relative to the fraction of time we spent devouring everything is a very embarrassing ratio.

While I wish I could cook in such a carefree manner as our lovely indigenous coordinators, normally when my friends and I break out a Barefoot Contessa or Giada De Laurentiis cookbook at home, it is a three-hour long ordeal that involves exact measurements and rarely straying from the recipe. However, I know that I'm already making some progress on lightening things up in the kitchen.  As aforementioned in another post, we lack a lot of trademark American kitchen utensils here so we have been performing quite a bit of "kitchen improv" as I have termed it.  When I get back to the states, I am hoping to be a pro!

Below are the dishes we created at IES.  To follow are some more weekly highlights and photos. Coordinating photo uploading among seven roomies is no simple task!

Baci,
Alexi


Vegetables au gratin

Chicken Rollatini: delicious chicken slices wrapped around
mortadella ham, egg, and parmigiano!

Sunday, September 4, 2011

The Highlight Reel

As I strolled along the jagged cobblestone streets with my suitemates on the way to the Trastevere neighborhood a few nights ago, sipping on a cup of "sangrita" (the Italian interpretation of sangria?  It tastes like a vino-flavored slushie), I took in the most beautiful view of our massive glittering city. Being abroad here has definitely reawakened my senses, sharpening and enhancing my ability to derive happiness from a sip of wine or a glance at the night sky.  Being so familiar with life at home, I doubt that I really took in more than 25 percent of what was going on around me at a time.  In contrast, life abroad inspires an engagement in the surrounding community and culture that maximizes one's understanding of and appreciation for all that is happening.  With this in mind, I thought I would provide you all with a few highlights from my first week here.  Hopefully, this will be a continuous theme on the blog as I continue to discover more in town, throughout Italy, and beyond to the other European countries I travel to!

Lago di Martignano

Mission: relaxation.  This was the message conveyed by Gianni, an IES staffer in charge of my icebreaker group.  We had just taken a charter bus about 45 minutes outside of Rome to the region of Lazio, then boarded a smaller, thinner bus that wound its way up a massive mountain to our final destination.  Atop that mountain lay a gorgeous expanse of pasture, a hilltop restaurant with a divine outdoor patio, and an absolutely breathtaking view of the volcanic lake Martignano that was ours for the exploring.  After we finished discussing our choice of Roma in the small icebreaker groups and analyzing the difference between the American schedules we so recently kept and the Italian schedules we will soon be keeping, we were free to enjoy the lake however we so chose.  We all snacked on pre-packaged sandwiches (Prosciutto and mozzarella? Check yes!) and then dove into the sparkling water.  The bottom of the lake was coated in sticky mud from the volcano which unfortunately had that jellyfish-like texture that forces you to tread water well beyond your capacity, but we can certainly use all of the aerobic exercise we can get out here (Pasta every day? I can check that off the list as well).  The rest of the day was spent paddleboating and lying in the sun, attempting to build that Italian glow I have come to desire so much every time I see a skinny, perfectly dressed Italian girl (every 5 seconds).  Not a bad way to start off an incredible semester!

Lago di Martignano

Suitemates by the lake

Lovely foliage by the pastures

A stampede of sheep crashing the party

Touristy Goodness

I am not going to lie, I am not above taking pictures of the clichéd touristy delights of Rome.  They are in those guidebooks for a reason, you know.  So while I hope to share some undiscovered gems in the future, I can provide you with some assurance that the highly revered spots are actually true prizes.  Earlier this week, our ISC took us out for a night out on the town where we slurped on delicious "grattachecca," a traditional Roman dessert akin to a more flavorful snow cone with fruit on top, and then wandered over to St. Peter's Basilica in Vatican City.  Police cars constantly whir around San Pietro to ward off potential trespassers and keep an eye on the holy site, one well worth protecting as you will agree after seeing the photo below.  We topped off our night alongside the glistening Tiber River, which is lined with bars and discos in the summer months that reel in visitors and locals alike by the dozen.

St. Peter's Basilica

Doing as the Romans do...slurping from fountains!
(Normal here, I promise.)

Mojito Très, a bar alongside the Tiber

Yesterday, my roommate Sara and I joined her family on Via Del Corso, one of Rome's trendiest and most well-renowned shopping streets, to peruse the shops for gifts for friends and family at home. There was an impressive mix of high-end and more moderately-priced boutiques, but I think I will save some gelato money for now and conveniently hit the via again when my parents are in town. We also wound our way to the Trevi fountain, the largest Baroque fountain in the city, that is unmatched in its regal splendor by any other water fixture in my humble opinion.  Of course, considering all of the trips still to be taken, I may be challenging this assertion quite soon.  I had a few spare centimes and was able to make a wish at the Trevi, a popular tradition, so we'll see where that one goes!  After some spaghetti alla carbonara (Doing things authentically has never felt this good!), our aching hammies and food coma begged for us to call it a day, but I think we have done pretty well for our first week!

A colonna on Via Del Corso

Trevi

Mid-wish!

Interesting street art 

Altare Della Patria in Piazza Venezia

Sweet Suite Cucina

We have devised a pretty genious system in the apartment where we cook dinner in pairs three nights of the week.  It sounds a bit silly, but I definitely feel a lot more grown up than I did in the states having our own kitchen to clean, organize, and cook in using what supplies we can scrounge up in Rome.  We are not short on the food by any stretch, but there are definitely some kitchen implements they are lacking over here.  So far, Megan and Kristen have whipped up a pasta with Amatriciana sauce (the Roman word for a bacon and tomato combo) which was served with bread and olive oil.  Last night, Kate and I made some delicious crepes with fillings including grilled chicken, pesto, prosciutto, feta, and some sweet toppers like bananas and Nutella.  We had a few neighborhood friends over who brought some sparkling wine and the most fantastic cannolis I have ever eaten.  We are definitely embracing our new living space and experimenting with what is offered in Roman markets.  A simple grocery run often brings unanticipated intrigue.  On Thursday, we met Paola, a lovely middle-aged Italian woman, in the checkout line of a nearby market.  She heard me speaking English and asked if we could meet with her at some point so she could speak English with us and teach us some Italian in exchange.  We are looking forward to her e-mail and the enriching chats over cappuccinos to come.  Without further ado, some foodie pics:

Megan improv-ing on a can opener alternative

Our first homemade meal

Crepe time!

The most delicious cannolis...ever!

A week of intensive Italian and academic advising awaits, interspersed with more excursions and some IES-led cooking classes.  Looking forward to updating soon.  

Arrivederci for now,
Alexi

Wednesday, August 31, 2011

Firsts

First warm greeting at Fiumicino from beaming IES staffers.  First shuttle trip through the city, a mishmosh of emotions: captivation inspired by breathtaking views of ancient churches and storied fountains mixed with constant fear as the van hurled its way through the streets, making last minute turns inches away from pedestrians.  First home-cooked meal with my adorable suitemates, a lovely concoction of al dente pasta, mozzarella, zucchini, and tomatoes, served with warm Tuscan bread and iced tea.  First impression of Susanna, our Italian Student Companion: affable, easygoing and the go-to girl for 20-something Roman living.  First view of the Colosseum through the window of Metrobus 44.  I had predicted it would be an overrated sight, but one glimpse of the real thing proved me wrong: what a gorgeous must-see!  First (legal!) bottle of rosé wine to accompany our first pizza dinner in Piazza Venezia.  First trip up Michelangelo's steps (ow, calves).  First night out on the town with my bubbly classmates in Trastevere at the swanky Bar San Castillo.

The past few days have been rife with exhilarating firsts (I didn't even mention my first delicious mango gelato in the massive paragraph above).  These lovely snapshots have quickly shown me that coming to this remarkable city was absolutely the right choice for me.  However, I can't deny that I am totally in the  "Ignorant American tourist falls head over heels for Rome" phase of my journey.  I know that I have so much to anticipate and to learn and that not all of it will provide that warm, fuzzy feeling I feel so often right now.  For just a few brief instants over the past couple days, I have experienced that bit of squeamishness that arises in the pit of one's stomach when the mind tells the body, "Hey, this isn't home."  There are the little things, like the lack of drying machines in our apartment (an inconvenience), and there are the bigger signs, like the language gap I struggle to bridge and the romanticism of the Italian lifestyle that poses such a great contrast to the American drive for hustle and bustle that was reinforced during my summer working in DC.  My goal for this semester is to embrace the squeamishness and to conquer it.  To stop seeing the drying racks as an inconvenience and to understand why Italians do what they do the way they do it.  I want to learn this culture, but more importantly, I am here to live it.  I guess the sociologist/anthropologist in me just can't resist analyzing every inch of this experience, but I'll liven up the post for those non-liberal artsy friends and throw in a few new pictures (this time, my own).  Here are a few initial snapshots...more to come (with me in them)!


Kate, Megan, and Kristen enjoying our first pranzo (lunch)!

Susanna, our ISC...she's the cutest!

The one time in my life I sufficiently underpacked.

The top of Michelangelo's steps at night.

Gorgeous nighttime views are a guarantee here!


The view as I walk to the school building.  Wow factor.


Baci,
Alexi

Monday, August 29, 2011

Ready for Roma!

Finally, the endless cycle of packing, unpacking, and repacking can be put to rest.  Tomorrow morning, I will be at home in Rome!  I will spare you all the minute details of my struggle fitting a semester's wardrobe into a single duffel, but no college girl can resist championing her favorite purchases: I  was very pleased to find the perfect travel bag and some comfy TOMS shoes for trekking across the city.


Ready.  Set.  Go to Rome!

My 6 PM flight to Fiumicino airport will land at 8:30 AM Rome time tomorrow.  I am so eager to give you all some more exhilarating updates on the other side of the Atlantic!  

A dopo,
Alexi  

Friday, August 19, 2011

The Countdown Begins...

"Don't ask me how to get started, it's all uncharted."

Call me cheesy, but I had to quote a Sara Bareilles song for this.  It is unbelievable to me that in 10 short days I will board a plane and move across the world to a quaint Roman apartment on Via Andrea Busiri Vici.  Right now, it all just feels so strange.  Half of my friends are en route to Atlanta for the semester, while the rest are scattering across the globe from Amsterdam to Costa Rica, India to France.  And I am off to Italy for a truly uncharted adventure.  

Being a planner who enters everything from meals out to Skype dates on my calendar, this is a bit nerve-racking.  I have no clue who I will meet, where I will go, or even what venue I will frequent for fourthmeal (only college kids will get that one...and do they even do fourthmeal in Italy?  I'm pretty sure Taco Bell created that word...).  The not knowing is starting to drive me a little crazy now that I don't have a summer job to distract me and I do have a massive to-do list to conquer in the next week and a half.  Still, I feel that there is such promise in what is unknown, the promise to learn, grow, and improve oneself that only a leap outside of one's comfort zone can offer.  So, while I know the novel Eat, Pray, Love racked up some mixed reviews, I've decided to title my blog similarly because I, like author Elizabeth Gilbert, am all too fond of indulging in decadent Italian food and documenting new life reflections.

Below are a few pretty photos I found on Pinterest as a prelude to the real thing.

Ciao,
Alexi


Bellissimo!

I wish every flag looked this good...

So enticing...

Audrey Hepburn in Rome with a puppy...what could be more fabulous?